I do believe fall is the perfect time for sewing.

These are some sneak peek shots we took this weekend while shooting designs for the debut collection of patterns.

Fall is the perfect time of year for extra-long, colorful silk scarves that can be tied in a big floppy neck bow. This scarf would be particularly awesome with a matching skirt and little jacket or sweater. It’s made in silk charmeuse, which shows off saturated colors so well. And depending on how you tie it, you can emphasize the shiny side or the matte.

This version utilizes a french seam connecting two long pieces of fabric, which means it uses a small amount of yardage. The edges of all four sides have a hand rolled hem. Now, I won’t lie, a hand rolled hem takes time. But it has such a wonderfully soft, handmade look, like something from an old-fashioned tailor or dressmaker.

First, you need about half a yard of silk charmeuse. From this, cut two long strips: 1/2 yard long, by about 10 inches wide. You may choose to vary the width to make a wide or narrow scarf.

Next, piece the two strips end to end, following the tutorial How to create a french seam.

Last, hem all four sides, following the tutorial How to create a hand rolled hem.

Wear it wrapped around your neck several times, or tie in a big bow. You can even use this as an obi-style belt, or tie it in your hair.

French seams are wonderful for professional-looking, clean seams. The raw edge of fabric is essentially encased within the seam. They are perfect for light, delicate fabrics such as silk. This tutorial will produce a 5/8″ seam.

If you are making this silk scarf, you can use a french seam to join the two pieces of fabric end to end. While the seam will be visible, it will look very neat.

Pin the seam, with the wrong sides together.

Machine stitch, using only a 1/4″ seam.

Press the seam flat, then trim close to the seam.

Now press the seam downward.

Turn the fabric, so the right sides are now together. To help turn the seam, it can be helpful to run the tip of a knitting needle along the inside of the seam. Press the seam.

Stitch again, this time using a 3/8″ seam allowance. this will encase the raw edge.

Press the seam downward to finish the seam.

To finish the scarf, create a hand rolled hem along the four sides.

Hand rolled hems are so lovely, and with a little practice and a few tricks, quite easy to do (if a bit time consuming).

Begin by machine stitching 1/4″ from the edge along the entire edge.

Press the stitching flat.

Thread a hand sewing needle with matching thread. For a delicate fabric such as this silk charmeuse, use a small needle with a narrow eye to minimize the visibility of holes in your fabric.

Now find something you can use as a weight. This is so you can pull the fabric taut as you sew. I’ve read one recommendation to use a fabric-covered brick, but this craft supply caddy worked just as well. Books would also be fine.

Trim close to the stitching as you go, trimming about six inches at a time. Trimming only a bit at a time will minimize raveling.

Try to get very close to the stitches.

Anchor your thread at the edge of the fabric by creating a few backstitches there.

Pulling the fabric taut, hold the fabric edge between your thumb and forefinger, and roll toward you. Roll it until the machine stitching is hidden within the roll.

Use a slipstitch to stitch the hem. To do this, bring the needle out through the folded hem. Now create a tiny stitch between the folded edge and the garment fabric, catching only a few threads of the garment. Slip the needle through the fold for 1/4″ and back out, as shown in the above photo. Alternate the tiny stitch with the 1/4″.

Continue until edges are completely hemmed.

Do not press this seam flat when you’re done. You want it to have a nice soft roll to it.

Hi there. I’m Sarai.

I began Colette Patterns because I wanted to increase the opportunities for creativity in other people’s lives through making clothing, because I wanted to share the joy of making over the joy of buying, and because I wanted to make things that would contribute to the amazing craft movement going on today.

I love making clothing and I hope you enjoy my work as much as I do. I’ll be launching the first line in January 2009.

{ you can also check out my personal blog at sweet sassafras. }