There’s a short little interview with me up at Wardrobe Refashion, where I was a former pledge in 2007/2008. I love Wardrobe Refashion, so it was really fun to visit again!
I’m also giving away a pattern, so click on over… all you have to do is comment there saying which pattern you like best for a chance to get it!
I am very excited about this. I’ve received several emails asking how certain patterns, but especially Parfait can be adjusted for a smallish bust measurement. Well, I’m pleased to announce that the beautiful and talented Gertie has written a wonderful tutorial on doing a small bust adjustment and has graciously allowed me to repost it here for you all.
Here’s the instructions from Gertie:
Here’s what you need:
In a nutshell, what you have to do is try on the pattern tissue, pinch out bust fullness, and then transfer those changes on the flat pattern. Make any sense?
To start, we’re going to do a tissue fitting of the front bodice. At the seam allowances, pin together the front bodice pattern piece and the midriff piece. Very important: for the fitting, wear the bra that you plan to wear while wearing the dress. Also layer on top a very snug camisole or slip that so you can pin the pattern to you.
Pin the pattern piece to your camisole at center front, the side seam, and the top of the bodice, where the strap tab will connect. Don’t forget to account for the 5/8″ seam allowance.
As you can see, I’ve got some bagginess going on in the bust.
And on the side. See how the paper is wrinkling and standing away from my body? We need to get that sucker in.
We’re going to temporarily pin the bagginess out in 2 places: 1) the side bust, where a bust dart would usually be, and 2) the top of the bust, extending from the armhole.
The first thing you need to do, though, is to mark the apex of your bust. Books often refer to the apex as the fullest part of your bust. An easier way to think of it is where your nipple is. There, I said it. All decorum is out the window now!
Use a pin to mark the apex. (I forgot to mark mine while I was wearing it, but you get the point, right? [Hee hee. Point.])
Now, start pinching out extra fullness in the bust, first at the side, then at the armhole. Have your tucks radiate toward the apex. Here’s how it will look:
And a view from the side:
When you’re satisfied with your fit, take the tissue off and set it on your work space. Mark your apex with a circle. Use a seam gauge to measure the depth of each of your tucks at the widest part of the tuck. (You only measure one side, so you’re getting half the amount you tucked out).
Record your measurements. Here are mine:
Tuck at armhole: 5/8 inch
Tuck at side bust: 1 – 3/8 inch
Keep your measurements handy, and remove all pins from the tissue. Smooth out the front bodice piece. Now you’re going to mark two lines to alter on your pattern.
First, imagine where a bust dart would be if this pattern had one. Extend a line horizontally from the apex point.
Second, mark a point halfway up the armhole. Extend a line from the apex to this point.
Cut these lines, leaving a hinge at the apex.
Overlap each of the lines the amount of your measurements you recorded earlier. Tape the overlapped pieces down.
As you can see, there will be a little wrinkling around the apex. Eliminate all the wrinkles you can and then smoosh the piece down with your iron so it lies flat. (Yes, smoosh is the technical term.)
Finally, true up the lines on your pattern. Tape the altered pattern piece down to a clean sheet of paper. Draw a new side seam and armhole seam to smooth out the jagged edges. You can see where I’ve done this in blue marker.
This is your new pattern piece! I’m going to make a muslin of the two patterns pieces we used earlier. (Actually, it’s fabric from an old curtain. I’m just like Maria Von Trapp! Scarlett O’Hara!) If you’re using expensive fabric for your dress, I suggest you do the same.
See? Nice and fitted!
That’s all there is to it. You can use these principles on lots of other patterns as well. The method I used for the Macaron dress is a little different (since the front bodice piece is longer), and I’ll do a tutorial on that one as well.
Let me know in the comments if you have questions!
Thanks Gertie! Again, be sure to check out her fantastic new sewing blog.
Ok, this is pretty amazing. At least it is if you are like me, both addicted to fabric and addicted to Etsy. Catherine of More Cloth has created an index of fabrics available on Etsy, sorted by color! Catherine says on her blog that it’s far from comprehensive since there are so many wonderful fabrics available on Etsy, but I have to tell you, I spied so many beauties in just a few minutes of clicking. It’s really helpful and fun, just look:
Go check out More Cloth and have fun!
{via Heart Handmade
Have you guys seen the online magazine Modern Seamster yet? It’s a wonderful new digital magazine for the sewing enthusiast, and there’s a little story by yours truly in the latest issue, a free download!
I am in love with this huge, intricate, handmade butterfly applique. It’s a full 8″ by 6″ of black felt, and I think it would so amazing on a simple white or cream skirt. Only $7 from etsy seller kutz.
I really love street fashion. It all started when I was maybe 16 or 17 and first discovered the Japanese magazine Cutie. It’s filled with page after page of adorable girls on the street in quirky styles and I would go back and to my old issues for years when I was looking for inspiration.
Nowadays of course, there’s a wide assortment of street fashion blogs out there, from professionals like The Sartorialist and Garance Doré to the quirkier-leaning Hel Looks and London Street Fashion. Each is wonderful in its own specific way, much like the cities they cover.
So I am delighted that there is a new street style blog for all the cool, stylish people around Portland: Urban Weeds. There are certain to be a lot of food carts, a lot of tattoos, a lot of bikes, and a lot of beards.
Oh, isn’t this one just so lovely? Gertie emailed me with a link to this post on her new sewing blog about Parfait, and I am just in love. It looks so lovely on her, and the pink and white checks are so summery. Here’s what Gertie has to say about Parfait:
“I made the Parfait dress in a pink seersucker check from B&J, and I have to say I’m over the moon about the pattern. The drafting is great, the instructions are awesome, and the aesthetic is so beautiful. Look at the little gathered patch pockets!”
Some of you might recognize this beautiful lady as a finalist from the recent SewStylish Spring Fashion Contest, which I read about on A Dress A Day. Ignoring the awful naysayers, I really really loved her striped summer dress as well.
Go check out, bookmark, and subscribe to Gertie’s New Blog for Better Sewing, I’m sure there are many more beauties to come.
Wow, another incredible Japanese fabric from chokichokifabric, this time with images of drafting! Something about this reminds me of the Eames’ workshop, and that just makes me happy.
There is something just so crisp and summery about red, white, and blue. This set seems like a pretty rare find, a gorgeous vintage belt buckle and matching buttons. Wouldn’t it look so amazing on a crisp white or navy summer dress?
This Japanese sewing machine fabric from chokchokifabric is pretty awesome. I really like its 50s retro flavor. It would make a great sewing tote or sewing apron, or just a super awesome dress or skirt.